Orkan needs lots and lots and lots of first arm rewards, both on threadles and serpentines. I keep rewarding the right behaviour with the wrong arm. Also reward them too rarely in general.
Another thing I keep doing is rewarding crap, just because not rewarding will have Orkan lose focus and go off sniffing. Greg had to keep reminding me that I need to get a new (correct) behaviour, preferrably a nose touch etc, before the screwup cookie. I find it extremely annoying that I need that reminder! I know I don't do as much of that in normal training as I did at the seminar, just beacuse of the limited time and my stress level. Altough it's sort of good that the seminar situation pulls out my worst sides (so they can get pointed out and I get my ass kicked for them) but anyway... I feel a bit stupid when I see myself rewarding c.r.a.p. over and over again...
Circlework: Orkan doesn't have much value for my reinforcement zone. Greg pointed out that food doesn't create that drive as much as tugging does, and that pretty much explaines why I need to work a lot at this. Finally our game is getting good enough to use for almost anything (yippee!) and we have lots of new opportunities for training. We need to focus on inside circles especially, and a bit of anti-bc drills.
A serpentine should have a clear return (second arm change). My footwork tends to be too straight forward, and my arm change too late. I've been trying to fade those signals a bit from having been too strong, but obviously over-done it.
Refusal planes (active lines) should have as much value as the obstacle itself. A very important skill when courses keep getting more technically intricate. That way you can rear cross a refusal plane (!) to "flick" the dog around and over a jump etc. New to me, very handy manouver! 270 skills vs threadling will always be subject for debate, I need to decide what I want, and I definately want to focus more on the refusal plane and less on the backside of the obstacle.
Orkan is now sometimes turning quite wide. Probably linked to more speed, leading to need of more immediate understanding to keep the lines looking good. I need to have that in mind when coursewalking.
I want our startlines to become completely unproblematic. Orkan never gets up to run for it, but he occasionally gets up to shake (especially if it's raining) and I think his stress level drops if I walk away slowly (not running). Sitting there is obviously not the funniest thing he knows, he isn't at all charged up the way I want. That's going to be a separate blog post one day when I have the energy to make a plan and some good criteria.
Reaction times (for the handler) can be trained. Maybe something I shold look into (computer games etc)? As it was pointed out, good dog training is very much about deciding if this was a good response or not, and why, leading to if it should be rewarded. You need to make those desiscions in a split second, and as you can see from the video, I'm not good at that at all (especially not when I'm a bit stressed and want to make as much as possible out of my limited seminar time). I seem to always go by plan A, no matter what my dog does...
Transitions, transitions, transitions. I actually thought I was quite ok at that. Apparently not. Part of the problem is getting Orkan to hang on to the toy while we move (and while I focus on other stuff, like someone telling me what went wrong and what to do). Our game is actually mostly good enough for that now, I don't need to get threats out for him to chew on while I think, walk or talk. But I need to get in his face (and that's a quote!) and stop letting him get away with halfway commitment. Lots of thoughts on that, will have to come back to it later.
Be paranoid about maintaining perfect front cross pisition. Self-explaining but very important.